current position:Home>It's not easy for pelaya to be an Internet celebrity when she "overturned"

It's not easy for pelaya to be an Internet celebrity when she "overturned"

2022-05-07 12:45:52Open pineapple Finance

writing | Open a pineapple (kaiboluocaijing), author | Wu Jiaoying , edit | Jin yuyu

2022 The online popular brand in “ Rollover ”, Late but late .

The protagonist of this time is the domestic skin care brand “ Peleya ”. First, when bloggers conduct sunscreen evaluation , Direct reference Peleya Our net red product feather sense sunscreen “ Poor protection ”, There's something wrong with the ingredients ; Then another blogger published the inspection report saying , Different batches of this product , The added content of both physical sunscreens has changed .

The formula content was changed illegally due to being questioned 、 Virtual elevation, sun protection and other problems , Peleya Sparked a debate among bloggers and consumer Crusades , Soon on the microblog hot search . After the incident , Peleya Issued a statement saying , The formula of this product has never been changed , Because the production process is difficult , Resulting in differences in some batches of finished products , Support return and refund . at present , This product has been on its official website 、 Tmall 、 Jingdong and other e-commerce platforms have been taken off the shelves .

this Peleya Cause “ Public anger ”, It also has something to do with its consistent online Red Marketing .“ As the saying goes, the more fierce marketing is , The more you roll over .” One consumer said .

For example, this time “ Rollover ” Feather feeling sunscreen , Many bloggers have recommended , There are also the head anchors of the three platforms of taoshuaikuai to bring goods , In composition 、 Efficacy and other selling points “ Take it ” Consumers .

This is also “ The light of domestic goods ” Peleya Consistently “ tricks ”. this home 2003 Born in Hangzhou 、2017 In A Shares of the listed 、 It's been tepid for years “ Old country brand ”, stay 2020 year , With the anchor to bring goods 、KOL Want to buy 、 Star endorsement has created a popular model SKU——“ Good morning! C On the evening of A” Essence combination , Turn red in one fell swoop .

Of course , Like many new consumer brands , Peleya Take the road of net popularity , It's hard to escape “ Work for Internet Celebrity ” Destiny , Reflected in financial statements , It accounts for the revenue 40% About the cost of marketing and publicity . Although the popular online model is Peleya Bring huge revenue return , But it also drags down profits , That's why the average gross profit margin is as high as 60% The above cosmetics industry , Peleya The reason why it is difficult to make money .

In the highly competitive track of beauty and skin care , Through the reckless stage of network traffic , Peleya Our competitors , Are beginning to return from marketing to products , Spend more money on research and development . In the past few years, it has made great progress with popular pieces Peleya , Now , With the warning of this sunscreen incident , Also need to think about , How to support its market value of nearly 40 billion .

Poor batches of sunscreen products Peleya “ Rollover ” 了 ?

Give Way Peleya Deeply in doubt , It was listed last year 、 The official price 159 element /50ml A sunscreen product —— Feather sense maintenance essence sunscreen ( hereinafter referred to as “ Feather feeling sunscreen ”).

Not long ago , A skin care blogger released a sunscreen evaluation video , among , Peleya The feather sense of sunscreen boarded “ Blacklist ”, After three human body evaluations , Protection “ Poor performance ”,“ There is a big problem in the composition after submission for inspection ”.

Bloggers evaluate the sunscreen performance “ range ” source / Video screenshot of little red book

meanwhile , Another little red book skin care blogger also posted a story about Peleya Feather sense sunscreen video , Said it would send different batches of the product for inspection , Results show The addition content of two physical sunscreen agents in different batches has changed . Accordingly , The blogger proposed to the brand “ The formula content can be changed at will ”“ Increase the amount of physical sunscreen ”“ Multiple of virtual elevation ” Etc .

Bloggers say different batches of products have different content of ingredients source / Video screenshot of little red book

Then some bloggers retorted that , The test method of the above sunscreen evaluation is not professional , May lead to incorrect results . On zhihu , There are also many industry insiders who say , The brand should not illegally adjust the formula , But it's probably due to too many ingredients in the formula 、 Production process deviation, etc , There is a problem with the stability of the product .

At that time , The consumer blew the pot ,“ Peleya ” Soon on the microblog hot search .

It's no surprise that consumers reacted so strongly . For young people who love beauty , Sunscreen is the top priority of skin care , Except tanning can affect beauty , More because ultraviolet radiation will promote skin aging 、 Even cause skin cancer . It's summer , sunscreen 、 sun block 、 Sunscreen Spray, etc. “ Soft sunscreen ” product , More manpower N A must-have for bottles .

Peleya It is aimed at the sun protection needs and consumer psychology of young people , Publicize the efficacy and ingredients of this feather sense sunscreen to the extreme .

Its product introduction mentions , This product adopts “2 Heavy physical sunscreen +7 Heavy chemical sunscreen ” Physical sunscreen and chemical sunscreen combination system , The sun protection value reaches “SPF 50+,PA++++”, It has high sunscreen effect for a long time ; Also join 99% Pure nicotinamide , It can whiten, lighten and nourish the skin , It's called “ Huge and light 、 Strong sunscreen 、 Really whitening ”.

and , Since its launch , This sunscreen keeps appearing in bloggers KOL On our grass list , go by the name of “ Domestic sunscreen ceiling ”“ Summer talisman ”“ Unlimited buy back of good things ”. Besides , And Taobao Li Jiaqi 、 Tiktok Luo Wangyu 、 The head anchors of several platforms, such as Kwai Yu and the eldest childe, brought goods for them .

This sunscreen has been recommended by many bloggers / The little red book

Flying melon data display , near 30 Days. , Luo Wangyu brought this sunscreen 4 Time , Forecast sales 3 ten thousand , total GMV about 386 ten thousand ; Eldest childe Yu brought goods for him 2 Time ,GMV about 134 ten thousand . The monthly sales volume of this product in tmall flagship store is as high as 8 ten thousand , Jingdong flagship store also has a product evaluation of 1 Ten thousand .

Open pineapple financial inquiry and find , From this year 1 Month begins , Many consumers reported on social platforms , The texture of this product purchased at different times is different , Some are sticky 、 The color is white , Some are thin 、 Milky white . This time, it was exposed by many bloggers “ There are differences in composition ” and “ Insufficient protection ”, Many consumers are questioning , Peleya Whether the formula is changed or there are serious quality control problems .

After the incident , Peleya Issued an apology statement saying , The product has been on file since , The recipe has never changed , Because it is a sunscreen product with low viscosity of water in oil , The production process is difficult , Some batches of finished products are different , And said to open the after-sales channel .

Luo Wangyu, the anchor of Tiktok, who recently brought goods for him many times, also released a video saying , After communicating with the brand , This is indeed a serious production accident , Multiple batches are unstable 、 Uneven problem ; Before the matter is investigated , Suspend and Peleya All of our cooperation ; All users who buy this product in their live studio , You can return goods according to the order number .

Open pineapple financial consulting Peleya The customer service of tmall flagship store received a reply of , At present, this product supports return and refund processing . However, only two human efficacy test reports of different batches of products are shown , Express “ The SPF of each batch meets the requirements of the declaration , No security issues ”.

But why are there differences for different batches 、 Whether to investigate next 、 How to prevent and improve in the future , Peleya No explanation given .

Zhang Bo, a person in the marketing industry, believes that , Cooperate with runbaiyan KOL“ Rollover ”、 Yu se “ betrayal ” Compared with Li Jiaqi and others , Peleya This time in product quality control “ Rollover ”, The negative impact on brand reputation is more serious ,“ Because it really involves harming the rights and interests of consumers , Plus the previous online marketing overdone , It may also cause rebellious psychology .”

One year's marketing spend 20 Billion , Peleya Early school “ bad ” 了 ?

“100 A blogger 99 Everyone is boasting .” consumer Nami Tell me about pineapple Finance , She just bought... Last month Peleya This sunscreen product , It's the skin feeling and sunscreen power they publicize , In addition, it has been recommended by skin care bloggers who have always paid attention to , Rest assured to place an order .“ Now I feel cheated .”

Nami Remember , The first time I bought Peleya It was last year 11 period , “ At that time, the double anti facial mask of this brand was very popular , All major anchors and bloggers are pushing , It is said that it has excellent antioxidant and brightening effect .” After being brushed to plant grass ,Nami Taking advantage of the big promotion discount, I also placed two boxes .

In the past two years, , image Nami In this way, we continue to pay attention to and buy... Because of the online red single products Peleya People who , Not in the minority . It is precisely with this set of popular style playing method in line with the new consumption wave , Years of tepid Peleya To be able to “ Reddening ”, And declared to start from “ Peleya It's really different ” trend “ Peleya It is the light of domestic goods that can represent China to compete with the world ”.

2019 Years ago , Peleya Although it's already logged in A One of the leading companies in the cosmetics industry , However, both sales channels and target customers are traditional , Among young people with growing spending power , The popularity and influence are not high .

however , stay 2020 year , With skin care “ Component party ” The rise of , Peleya Caught. “ Good morning! C On the evening of A” The most popular traffic code in the beauty and skin care industry at that time .

So-called “ Good morning! C On the evening of A”, namely “ Use it in the morning with VC Skin care products 、 Use at night VA Skin care products ”, In the mouth of bloggers , Anti sugar and anti-oxidation during the day 、 Anti Wrinkle Repair at night , This kind of collocation can play “1+1>2” The effect of .

Peleya Hot products “ Good morning! C On the evening of A” The essence of source / The little red book

Peleya The double anti essence and Ruby essence launched that year , It contains these two main components , Soon , This set of “ Ace set ” It has become recommended by many bloggers “ Good morning! C On the evening of A” An introduction to the product , And frequently appear in the live broadcast room of anchors on major platforms . meanwhile , Peleya Also official publicity actor Sun Li and traffic idol Cai Xukun speak for , A link does not fall to the ground to undertake new consumption “KOL Want to buy + Anchor with goods + Celebrity endorsement ” play .

thereafter , Peleya Copy the same playing method to more pieces , Created a double anti facial mask 、 Double anti eye cream 、 A series of popular models such as feather sense sunscreen SKU. This burst strategy , Not only Peleya To obtain the “ The light of domestic goods ” The reputation of the , Performance also soared .

Results show that ,2022 First quarter , Peleya The company's revenue is 12.5 One hundred million yuan , Year-on-year growth 38.5%;2021 Annual revenue 46.3 One hundred million yuan , Year-on-year growth 23.5%, comparison 2018 Almost doubled in , Which is close to 83% Our revenue is the main brand Peleya To create the .

Among them , With the great single product of marketing, we can't do without . In this year 3 Of the month 2022 At the annual investor exchange meeting , Peleya According to , Its 2021 In the third quarter of, large single products accounted for... Of the total revenue of the main brand 20%+, The proportion of large single products on tmall platform is about 55%+, double 11 During this period, the proportion of large items 70%+; In this year's “ flighty ” In great haste ,“ Good morning! C On the evening of A” Combined cumulative sales 7.8 ten thousand + Pieces of .

however , Online sales and online popularity , It's real gold and silver .

In recent years , Peleya The cost of sales has gone up , from 2018 Year to 2021 year , Peleya The selling expenses are about 9 One hundred million yuan 、12 One hundred million yuan 、15 Million dollars 20 One hundred million yuan , Respectively accounted for the revenue of the year 37.5%、39%、40% and 43%. To 2022 First quarter , Its selling expenses have been 5.3 One hundred million yuan , Of revenue 42.4%.

Its earnings interpretation , The cost of sales is increasing , as a result of Increased investment in image publicity and brand promotion . This part is considered to include star endorsement fee 、KOL Promotion fee and anchor delivery Commission, etc .

Peleya 2019-2021 Source of key performance indicators for the year / results

Cosmetics itself belongs to the profiteering industry , Over the past few years , The gross profit margin of leading enterprises in the industry is basically maintained at 60% above , Peleya No exception . however , High cost of sales , Straight down Peleya Net interest rate , be difficult to escape “ Work for Internet Celebrity ” Embarrassment .

such as , Its 2021 The annual revenue in is as high as 46.3 One hundred million yuan , Net income of 5.8 One hundred million yuan , The net interest rate is only 12.5%, However, the gross profit margin is 66.46%.2022 First quarter , This situation has not improved much , The gross profit margin is 68% Under the circumstances , The net interest rate for 12.8%.

“ Re marketing is a practical need , It's also a problem .” According to Gao Jianfeng, founding partner of Shanghai bogay Consulting , Due to the lack of brand power 、 The product needs to maintain exposure through high-frequency exposure , Marketing has become the focus of many domestic brands at present , Brands do need to pay a high cost .

“ Some new consumer brands are popular through online marketing , It has also attracted many old brands to emulate .” According to Cui Lili, director of the E-commerce Research Institute of Shanghai University of Finance and Economics , Peleya Continue to increase marketing , There may also be pressure from competition from other new brands . But she thought , Yes Peleya Come on , Brand building and marketing activities for new sub brands are more necessary .

Online hot money , It can hold up Peleya Of 400 Billion market value ?

The main brand's online popular single product playing method , In fact, it has also been copied to Peleya On your new brand .

Peleya Its beauty brand Caitang , As a professional makeup artist , It also became popular under the promotion of Cheng Shian and other popular beauty bloggers , And sell popular models through the live broadcast room of famous anchors such as Li Jiaqi .

The data shows ,2021 year , Caitang's revenue 2.46 One hundred million yuan , Year-on-year growth 103.5%; During this year's March 8th National Congress , Caitang tmall flagship store GMV Year-on-year growth exceeds 400%.

however , The marketing cost paid by the company is also huge , Financial disclosure , Peleya company 2021 The year is nearly... Higher than the previous year 5 Billion yuan of sales expenses , among The investment in image publicity and promotion accounts for about 4.5 One hundred million yuan , It is mainly spent on the incubation of new brands such as Caitang .

Of Caitang products “ Want to buy ” note source / The little red book

stay 3 At the investor exchange meeting in June , Brand planning for Caitang , Peleya The company also said , This year will continue to strengthen and strengthen the head 、 Waist KOL The cooperation of , To keep breaking the circle .

Can heavy money marketing make Caitang famous in the beauty industry , At present, we still have to make a question mark , But on the other side , Main brand Peleya But it has been “ Re Marketing ” Tired .

Over the past four years , Peleya Although the revenue and net profit have always exceeded 20% The growth of , But in the 2021 year , The growth rate has been exceeded by 50% Betaine, the rising star of, left behind , Its main brand Peleya Revenue , Has also been overtaken by Winona . And Huaxi biological's functional skin care products business , Because we have the resources of raw materials , Gross margin up to 79%,2021 Although the annual revenue is only 33.2 One hundred million yuan , But the year-on-year growth reached 146.57%.

In Gao Jianfeng's opinion , The proportion of sales expenses in revenue is too high , It's really pressing on Peleya A big mountain overhead , But with the advantage of products 、 The brand is becoming more and more mature 、 The scale continues to expand , This part of investment will reach a critical point , At that time, with the dilution of costs , The net interest rate will increase .

Compared with competitors , Peleya Another big problem “ ills ” It's light research and development .

Results show that , from 2019 Year to 2021 year , Despite the sharp rise in revenue , but Peleya Our R & D expenses have always been kept at 7000 ten thousand -8000 Ten thousand yuan , Less than the total revenue 2%.

This is not a positive signal . by comparison , No matter the size of Shanghai is larger , Or betaine who bet on Winona , Or cross-border launch of embellish beauty 、 Cuddy and other brands of Huaxi Biology , Investment in R & D should be higher , And increasing .

for example ,2021 year , Bertoni 40 The revenue volume of 100 million yuan is not as good as Peleya , But R & D costs are 1.1 Billion , And a year-on-year increase 78.5%; Shanghai Jiahua's revenue 76.5 One hundred million yuan , R & D expenses also have 1.6 One hundred million yuan , Year-on-year growth 13%.

however , From the data of the first quarter of this year , Peleya R & D expenses have also increased year-on-year 66.7%, achieve 3000 Ten thousand yuan , There is also a tendency to increase R & D investment .

Gao Jianfeng thinks , Increasing research and development is also a new trend , Especially high-end 、 Functional product R & D direction , It is the consensus of the top players in the cosmetics industry .“ Huaxi biological, which focuses on the functional brand of medical beauty 、 Bertini's own R & D investment is large , Other brands that used to focus on marketing, such as Yixian e-commerce 、 Huaxizi is also rapidly increasing R & D investment with practical actions .”

In Cui Lili's opinion , Cosmetics industry is a high margin industry , Its main cost lies in product R & D and brand building , But the positioning of brand marketing should always be “ Add a beautiful thing to a contrasting beautiful thing ”. and , Peleya Not an emerging brand , What we have to do now , It should be how to push through the old and bring forth the new on the basis of the existing customer base 、 Increase the content of science and Technology .

what's more , She thinks , Consumers may be more cautious about spending on non essential goods in the future , under these circumstances , Beauty and skin care brands need to pay more attention to product strength .

obviously , Market capitalization 385 One hundred million yuan A Stock listed company , You can't just think about how to be a netizen anymore .

* Respondent's request , Zhang Bo 、Nami It's a pseudonym .

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